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Emails from Alaska

Hi from Barrow, Alaska

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeri Fink
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 2:54 AM
Subject: Hi from Barrow,Alaska


Hi.

I'm writing this from Barrow, Alaska - the northernmost point in the United States. It sits on the Arctic Ocean in an area settled long ago by the Inupiat Eskimo. Right now the temperature is a balmy ten degrees below zero with a wind chill factor of -27.

Everyone tells me that this is an exceptionally warm winter.

I've been working with fourth and fifth grade children in the Ipalook Elementary School. They're warm, energetic, and excited about meeting a visiting author. Their lives are very different - they can tell you almost everything there is to know about a whale yet most of them have never seen a tree (no trees grow in the tundra). The kids are full of questions about New York. When I tell them that all the people in Barrow could live in one apartment building in Manhattan, their eyes widen in awe. It's hard to imagine what a big city looks like when you've spent most of your life in a small town with only three stores, six restaurants and no movie theater.

I'm staying with the kindergarten teacher from Ipalook. Tonight after dinner we checked outside and the sky was clear and the air cold and crisp. Perfect weather to see the northern lights (aurora borealis). We unplugged the car from its electric outlet (to keep it from freezing) and drove down a road that runs along the frozen Arctic Ocean, past tiny wood houses, deep snow drifts, and small whaling boats. We stopped at the "point," away from Barrow. The car was running (you can't turn off the engine without plugging it into the heater) and stepped out into glistening white snow.

The northern lights loomed above me. They curved across the sky like a misty canopy of light, pierced only by the brightest stars. The lights were constantly in motion, undulating, changing shape and direction. It was as if I were embraced in a strange, otherworldly haze. Off in the distance I heard the sharp sounds of Eskimo music as I lost myself in the sky - drawn into a spirit world of light and movement.

It was a moment I'll remember for the rest of my life.

Here's a photo of me dressed in my Arctic gear, standing in front of the breastbones of a whale. You can't see the northern lights - but you can imagine them as well as the frozen Arctic Ocean behind me.

 

Catalogue

2-5-01 The Beginning/ Itinerary
2-5-01 Leaving
2-11-01 In Florida
2-15-01 From Florida to Alaska
2-16-01 Welcome to Alaska
2-22-01 Hi from Barrow, Alaska
2-25-01 Riding the Arctic Ocean
3-1-01 Hi from Arizona
3-6-01 Home Again

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